A History of Engagement Rings
- Liberty King
- 6 days ago
- 3 min read
Rings throughout history were not worn purely for adornment or to symbolise a marital status, but had ties to many different forms of symbolism. From dedication to religion, as a talisman against sickness and disease, or as a sign of wealth and status. Nowadays, one of the most common items of jewellery for women to have is an engagement ring. The move towards this modern tradition was gradual and shaped by important figures and clever marketing.
Ancient examples
The earliest example of an engagement ring, or betrothal ring as they are otherwise known, was from Ancient Rome. The Romans expressed their desire to wed with a recurring motif of two clasped right hands. the Fede ring was a popular choice at the time and the motif has reoccured throughout history.
Fede, meaning faith, took the betrothal and wedding at a literal sense, with the joining of the right hands representing the contract and commitment of marriage. the design was associated with the goddess Fides, who represented faith and trustworthiness. A Roman philosopher Macrobius also stated that the rings were to be worn on the fourth finger of the left hand as it was believed to have a ‘vena amoris’ or vein of love than ran from this finger directly to the heart.
Medieval betrothal
Moving more to the middle ages, betrothal rings were rich with symbolism. Rubies represented passionate love, romantic inscriptions appeared in various European languages and engraved decoration of flowers, leaves, animals and any symbolism important to the couple. Most rings of the period were still fairly simple, with engraving being the most popular form of decoration.
Pictured below, the rings are inscribed from left to right "with great love" , "from Lawrence to Lena Lena" and "With all my heart" when translated.
Mary of Burgandy is thought to be the first to have a recorded diamond engagement ring. Given to her by Emperor Maximilian I around 1477, the ring was set with diamonds in the shape of an M. Mary can also be seen in portraits to be wearing a point cut diamond ring. The diamond, in its natural octahedron shape, would appear black due to its closed back setting. Other point cut diamonds can be seen used in various rings, such as these seen below.
18th century
By the the 18th century, rings became more detailed and expressive. Hearts, flowers, fruits, cupids, doves, portraits and more can be seen decorating betrothal rings. Individuality and personal representation made these rings so creative and unique. Masquerade rings were popular in France and swivel rings gave chance for two important themes to be explored. Flowers in enamel, micromosiacs and cupids stealing hearts gave these rings a sense of whimsy and style. Clusters of gemstones became more popular, with cuts developing to create more sparkle In the candlelight.
19th Century
In the 19th century examples of engagement rings continue to develop in style. Napoleon gifts Josephine a 'toi et moi' ring of a sapphire and a diamond to represent the two bodies uniting as one. Queen Victoria’s snake ring symbolised eternal love and plenty of 19th Century examples survive today to show the variety of themes. Rings also became simpler, relying more on the beautify of the gemstones rather than complex enamelling, engraving and messages.
20th Century
In the 20th century, styles of engagement rings were refined even more, with one of the most important mentions of the century being the 1947 De Beers marketing slogan ‘a diamond is forever’. This marketing campaign pushed diamonds as the most romantic purchase a man could buy for his future wife. Selling the idea that the diamond, like the couples love, lasted forever, suggested diamonds as the perfect choice for an engagement ring, whilst also keeping the possibility for resale low. Also creating a concept that a diamond should cost two-months’ salary with the slogan “how can you make two months salary last forever?” De Beers set a standard for what is to be expected from an engagement ring.
Further emphasised by TV and Movie stars, like Marilyn Monroe singing ‘diamonds are a girls best friend’ the idea of diamonds being the star choice and something every woman should desire was concreted into society.
Today
When looking at modern engagement rings the favoured choice still remains to be diamonds, however when compared to historical options, there is much less symbolism, whimsy and sentiment.
Thus I pose the question:
Would you rather a large, plain solitaire diamond ring, or something draped in romantic gesture, personal symbolism and meaningful messages?
