A Glimpse at British Jewellery Eras

Jewellery has always been more than decoration. iIt mirrors fashions and techniques of the time and allows us to follow history. This post explores the defining characteristics of key jewellery eras from the Georgian period to the present day.

Georgian 1714-1837

The Georgian period is named after the Hanoverian monarchs, Kings George I to IV and also includes the reign of William IV (1830–1837). This era was defined by aristocracy, exploration and cultural development, with wealthy families embarking on Grand Tours across Europe, collecting souvenirs and artistic inspiration from a wide range of countries.

All jewellery from this period was handmade making each piece unique. Stones were hand cut, often rose cut, table cut, or old mine cut, with irregular facets that added charm and character. Popular motifs were naturalistic with floral and foliate designs being especially common.

Settings were typically closed back and often featured foils placed behind gemstones to enhance sparkle and catch the flicker of candlelight. Silver was the most commonly used metal for settings with gold backings applied to prevent tarnish from staining clothing.

Although laws still technically governed what different classes could wear, these were largely ignored during the Georgian period, allowing the emerging middle class to enjoy fashionable jewellery. The invention of the rolling mill helped reduce labour and costs, making decorative items more accessible. Materials such as topaz, chrysoberyl, paste and cut steel became popular alternatives to more expensive gems.

Sentimental pieces such as portrait miniatures or hair jewellery were often worn in lockets or hidden behind panels in brooches. While typically associated with the Victorian period, such items were widespread during the Georgian era. It's important to remember that jewellery styles evolved gradually, the transition from Georgian to Victorian was not abrupt but a steady development in design and technique.

Victorian 1837-1901

The Victorian era is fittingly named after Queen Victoria, who ruled for 63 years and 7 months. This was a period of rapid industrialisation and scientific discovery, which brought about vast changes in society and culture. Jewellery of the era reflects these complexities, ranging from romanticism and sentiment to mourning and mass production. Popular motifs included serpents, flowers, and birds, all rich with symbolism. Prince Albert’s engagement ring to Queen Victoria, a serpent, sparked a trend for snake motifs symbolising eternal love. On their wedding day, the Queen wore a simple orange blossom parure representing chastity and betrothal, which became a staple for brides. The widespread distribution of royal portraits, particularly of their wedding portrait meant Victoria’s fashions easily influenced not only Britain but much of the world.

Albert frequently gifted and designed jewellery for Victoria, including her sapphire and diamond coronet, oriental tiara and bracelets set with portraits of him and their children. Sentimentality was central to her collection with her favourite piece a locket containing a lock of Albert’s hair. Following his death in 1861, the Queen spent the rest of her life in mourning. Her style reflected this, with jet, onyx, black pearls, and black enamel dominating her jewellery. A small crown was created in 1870 to fit over her widow’s cap.

Hallmarking became more regulated and technological advances such as electroplating and the introduction of 9ct gold widened access to jewellery. Later in the era, the Aesthetic and Revivalist movements gained popularity, drawing on Renaissance, Etruscan, and Gothic influences. This was aided by Thomas Cook’s affordable travel packages and the global reach of Alberts 1851 Great Exhibition. Sentiment, symbolism and innovation coexisted in Victorian jewellery and although the era ended with the Queen’s death in 1901, many of its styles and ideas continued well into the Edwardian period.

Edwardian 1901-1910

Short but sweet, Edward VII’s reign marked a time of elegance and luxury. Known to the rest of Europe as La Belle Epoque, the jewellery of this period embraced delicate craftsmanship and a sense of lightness, moving away from the heavy, sombre motifs of the late Victorian era. The use of platinum allowed for much finer settings due to its strength, enabling extremely intricate and airy designs with openwork filigree and millegrain details. Motifs such as garlands, bows, and laurel wreaths—often set with diamonds and pearls—were popular, largely inspired by 18th-century French court fashions.

The refined tastes of Queen Alexandra and the wider Edwardian court helped define the era’s elegant and feminine style. White-on-white combinations—platinum paired with diamonds or pearls—created a shimmering, ethereal effect under electric lighting, which was becoming increasingly common in high society. D collar chokers (known as colliers de chien) were especially fashionable due to lowering necklines, worn with tiaras for court appearances and grand social occasions. Though the era was short-lived, Edwardian jewellery remains among the most technically sophisticated and stylistically cohesive in history, with its legacy still admired today.

Art nouveau

The Art Nouveau period, flourishing from the 1890s to around 1915, known as la Belle Epoque to Europe, was a bold departure from traditional jewellery styles, embracing artistic expression, undulating lines and nature inspired forms. Rooted in a desire to break away from historical revivalism and mass production, Art Nouveau jewellery prioritised craftsmanship and creativity. Sinuous, organic lines dominated designs with whiplash curves, vines, flowers, insects and female forms frequently appearing. Unlike the rigid symmetry of earlier eras, this style celebrated asymmetry and freedom.

Materials were chosen as much for their visual effect as their value. Enamel, particularly plique-à-jour, featured heavily along with carved horn, moonstone, opal and glass. Gold was often used in warm tones, complementing the naturalistic colour palettes. Makers like René Lalique and Georges Fouquet led the movement in France, while Liberty & Co. and Archibald Knox championed the style in Britain.

Art Nouveau jewellery was less about wealth and more about artistry, often produced in small quantities or as one of a kind pieces. Though its popularity waned with the rise of Art Deco modernism, Art Nouveau remains celebrated for its originality, expressive design and the way it blurred the boundaries between fine art and decorative jewellery.

Art deco

The Art Deco period emerged in the 1920s and flourished through the 1930s, reflecting a world transformed by modernity, liberation and technological progress. Jewellery of this era was polar opposite to that of its predecessor. It embraced bold geometry, symmetry and crisp lines, moving away from the delicate curves of Art Nouveau and Edwardian design.

Art Deco design was influenced by a range of global inspirations, including the 1922 discovery of Tutankhamun’s tomb, which sparked a fascination with ancient Egyptian motifs. Japanese design, Indian jewellery, and other non-Western art forms also inspired jewellers with fresh, exotic ideas. Motifs such as zigzags, scarabs, sunbursts, lotus flowers, chevrons, and stylised natural forms featured prominently. The overall aesthetic was sleek, glamorous, and unashamedly modern.

Platinum remained the metal of choice allowing for strong yet refined settings, often with calibre-cut sapphires, rubies, emeralds and onyx used to create strong contrasts against diamonds. The use of synthetic stones and new cuts like the baguette and the emerald cut, reflected both innovation and changing tastes. Long sautoirs, geometric bracelets and were popular, catering to the fast-paced fashion-forward lifestyle of the era.

Women’s roles were evolving and so too was their jewellery. After the first world war women’s fashions transformed, evolving from curvy, restricted silhouettes to free and straighter shapes. Shorter hairstyles and daring hemlines led to new styles of adornment designed to be seen. The influence of the 1925 Exposition Internationale des Arts Décoratifs et Industriels Modernes in Paris gave the movement its name and solidified its international appeal. Art Deco jewellery remains one of the most iconic and collectible styles celebrated for its elegance and enduring modernity.

 

Modern/Contemporary

Modern and contemporary jewellery spanning from the mid-20th century to the present day, reflects a dynamic shift towards innovation, individuality and artistic expression. Breaking away from traditional forms and materials, designers began to experiment with bold shapes, and unconventional elements. Including makers like Andrew Grima, whose sculptural, abstract designs in the 1960s and '70s redefined British jewellery with their architectural lines and textured gold. Embracing a more artistic and less commercial approach to design the focus shifted from conventional notions of preciousness to craftsmanship and creativity, with materials ranging from traditional gold and diamonds to acrylic, aluminium and found objects.

In recent years, themes such as identity, politics and sustainability have emerged, with contemporary makers prioritising ethical sourcing and recycled materials. Today’s jewellery is as much about concept and narrative as it is about beauty or value, making the modern era one of the most diverse and thought-provoking chapters in jewellery history.

In summary

Jewellery is a powerful reflection of the time in which it was created shaped by changing tastes, societal shifts, technological advances and global influences. From royal courts to contemporary studios, each era has left its own mark on the way we adorn ourselves. While styles, materials and meanings continue to evolve, one thing remains constant, jewellery’s ability to tell stories and create a sense of personal identity.